Taco King by Ghostboy Cantina’s Toby Wilson was The George in Waterloo's beloved in-house taqueria. But new management – brought on by landlord disagreements and exacerbated by Covid-19 – forced Wilson and his tacos out.
So he took them on wheels with Ricos Tacos food truck, which was parked for a time outside Gelato Messina’s Rosebery HQ. Then in 2021, Wilson moved again – to a permanent taqueria in the backstreets of Chippendale on Meagher street. Throughout lockdown, he traded as a takeaway only, serving filter coffee and “breakfast” tacos – chorizo and potato with a gooey egg; potato and egg; and steak, beans and egg.
It was also the place where you could snag Ricos’ famous tacos in kit form (Wilson is still there building up the restaurant). And while Wilson’s original Taco King reworked regional Mexican specialties and traditional Mexican dishes into tortilla-encased snacks, Ricos Tacos – meaning “delicious tacos” in Spanish – pares things back to his true passion: perfecting a small selection of the handheld, side-of-the-road bites ubiquitous in other parts of the world, but mostly absent in Australia.
No matter where (or how) you find Wilsons tacos, headlining proceedings is usually the chorizo al pastor taco, which marries a house-made chorizo with the same al pastor sauce that graced the spit-roasted pork shoulder at The George. It’s topped with fresh pineapple – an al pastor staple – and that Taco King salsa. Then there’s the vegan cauliflower taco, topped with red salsa, white onions and coriander, that has followed Wilson since his days at Ghostboy Cantina, which he opened in Dixon House Food Court in 2016.