Features
IndonesianIf there’s one way to test the quality and ambition of an Indonesian restaurant, it’s through its sambal. A good one will have at least one pungent, spicy combo. A great one may have two. The Sambal has seven.
Owners Nessiana Pamudji and Ferry Tshai have worked previously in kitchens at Bar H , Billy Kwong and China Diner , but here they’re serving a cuisine they’re much more attached to – traditional Indonesian food. All the recipes are Pamudji’s mum's.
The sambals here include a vicious tomato; an eggplant version; a mild potato and chicken liver; and two different anchovy-based sambals. Each comes on a small plate to be used as a dip for the rest of the menu – recognisable dishes such as rending; sate ayam; nasi goreng; Indonesian fried chicken; and a few lesser-known specialities such as Padang-style tendon curry and lontong sayur, a rice cake-and-tempe soup. All of which, besides for the noodle dishes, are served in miniature portions with price tags to match; that way you can try more things.
The restaurant, while cutely designed by Pamudji based on the idea of a warung (a small, usually improvised street side stall), is just folding tables, a wooden takeaway counter stacked with homemade crackers, and a rolled-up garage-door entrance.
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