This Dixon House stall comes from Kazuteru O-San, a veritable noodle master in his prefecture, Kyushu, the birthplace and spiritual centre of the tonkotsu broth.
Kazuteru’s heart-stopping tonkotsu, made from 12-hour pork-bone stock, mixed with pig skin, feet, pork belly and other cuts, is verging on dhaal levels of viscosity. It may even challenge Gumshara for the title of Most Intense Broth In Sydney.
O-san brings in Tokyo’s thicker, eggier style of noodles, not usually seen in Sydney. For Kyushu-style ramen, the soup is very thick, so O-san uses thinner noodles. However, if you are attached to a thinner noodle, the regional guide isn’t gospel; just ask for the noodle style you want.
It also makes its own soy-bean paste for its rich and slightly sweet miso ramen. The kitchen can only pump out 10 bowls of this a day because the paste, using homemade soy sauce and a several-week-fermentation process, is a fiddly thing to make.
The other lamentably inflexible menu item is O-san’s tsukemen, a style of ramen where the noodles are served separately and dipped into a flavoursome broth. Kazuteru prefers a newer, extremely thick seafood-style stock that relies on flighty clams – the reason it’s not always available.