The Provincial, which opened at the start of December 2016, is owned by the Hawach family, the same people behind Jean Louis Joseph European provedore at Birkenhead Point.
Inspired by the Hawachs’ love of provincial-style cooking, the whole modern-Australian menu is cooked on a wood-charcoal parilla barbeque, operated by head chef Patrick Dang.
Start with Mount Cook Alpine Salmon with burnt cucumber, frozen buttermilk and horseradish. Or there’s marron with pickled mushrooms, corned veal tongue and sweet corn.
For mains, there’s Berkshire Heritage pork with pickled kohlrabi, blueberry and cabbage marmalade; John Dory with shiitake stuffing, baby bok choy and mussels; and New England lamb short loin with eggplant fataya, chickpeas and tahini yoghurt. For dessert, seared pineapple with blonde chocolate and popcorn glass yoghurt sorbet is a standout. It’s closely followed by roasted peach with lemon parfait, hazelnut strudel and lavender syrup.
The set menu of two courses ($55) or three ($65) includes a well-balanced wine list and an inventive range of cocktails.
The restaurant is underneath a residential development near Rozelle’s Bridgewater Park, with a rustic-yet-luxe interior by Zanazan Architecture Studio. Exposed timber detailing, high ceilings, polished concrete floors and stucco walls create an elegant, Hamptons-like atmosphere.