Spanning 120 seats across a walk-in bar area, private dining room and restaurant proper, Palazzo Salato is a beautiful trattoria by the Love Tilly Group, the team behind wine-centric Sydney venues Ragazzi, Fabbrica, Dear Sainte Eloise, La Salut and Love, Tilly Devine.

The look and feel of the venue is inspired by NYC dining institution, Gramercy Tavern, as well as the group’s favourite Roman trattorias. Curvaceous banquettes are decked out in tanned leather and gold velvet. Textured white walls are suggestive of meringue, and are punctuated by colourful framed artworks curated and custom silk printed pieces. A mural by Sydney artist Louis Wayling beautifies the bar.

Like its smaller siblings Ragazzi and Fabbrica nearby, Palazzo Salato is all about pasta. When Broadsheet visited, there were filled varieties such as scarpinocc with Andean sunrise potato, and agnolotti del plin with Wessex saddleback pork. Casarecce with Boer goat ragu and pine nuts; and spaghetti alla chitarra spun with bottarga – crowned with a raw egg yolk – were also on the menu.

Group executive chef Scott McComas-Williams and the team are also doing more with proteins than ever before. Think flat-iron steaks with house “Salato butter”, whole roasted fish and more.

Otherwise you might start with Sydney rock oysters slicked with vermouth jelly, creamy stracciatella studded with Cantabrian anchovies, and a colourful plate of raw vege with whipped ricotta.

Wine underscores everything the Love Tilly group does, and Palazzo’s extensive list includes around 600 bottles from around the world, along with detailed wine maps to help you choose. Of course, the team of knowledgeable sommeliers will be happy to make the decisions for you.