With its hot charcoals, spinning meats and wisps of flame and smoke, the kitchen at Olympic Meats is a mesmerising sight that can easily distract you from grabbing a menu or requesting a seat.

This Marrickville eatery, which is halfway between a gryadiko and a taverna, specialises in meats, cooked in the Greek kontosouvli style. And true to the name, all of the meats on the menu here – whether it’s six-hour lamb hot off the grill or the chicken or pork-filled gyros – are a higlight. But don’t overlook supporting dishes like cured vegetables, the wildly moreish beef tallow chips, or something off the rotating meze menu.

And be sure to save room for dessert. The filo for the bougatsa me krema – a pastry dusted with cinnamon – is house-made and hand-stretched daily.