Neptune’s Grotto is the fourth restaurant in as many years by Dan Pepperell, Mikey Clift and Andy Tyson. Together, they formed the trident that nailed the French bistro genre at 916, the garage trattoria at Pellegrino 2000 and the New York Grill at Clam Bar.

Like Pellegrino 2000, Italian is the focus at Neptune’s Grotto, but this time chefs Clift and Pepperrell have zeroed in on the rich, decadent cuisine of northern Italy, particularly Emilia-Romagna, the home of prosciutto di parma and Parmigiano Reggiano. Come for freshly made pastas and a wine list stacked with iconic Piedmontese producers.

The New Yorkian cool at Clam Bar upstairs trickles down to the Grotto, where it’s all too easy to lose track of time over a bottle of Barolo and a plate of tagliatelle swimming in pork and veal ragu. If you need to impress someone, impress them under the statue of the Roman sea god himself.