Monopole ’s Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt (who also operate Bentley, Cirrus and King Clarence), had always wanted to move their bustling venue from Potts Point to the CBD – an area that has suffered a dearth of vino venues of Monopole’s calibre.

The menu draws on French classics, but as you might expect, doesn’t exactly take the well-trodden road. There’s a prime example among the entrees: the mille-feuille d’anguille fumée. Monopole’s version is layered with smoked eel and tiny cubes of green apple, then topped with a creamy celeriac remoulade.

The most fun on the larger side is in the form of the burger de canard. A fat, juicy duck patty is topped with melty Comté, sprinkled with cornichons and given a kick with a house-made hot sauce. On a cold night, the only way to finish up is with the baba au Calvados – slabs of house-baked sponge soaked in rum.

Like the menu, the wine list favours French drops, including an impressive collection of burgundies.