Sometime during your meal, you're going to get some cheese. When it comes, it's not going to be delivered on a cutting board or a platter. Like the fanciest and most exciting yum cha services, it’s delivered to your table from a trolley.
Mercado makes its own cheese, butchers its own meat; makes its own charcuterie; and bakes its bread using house-milled grains.
Chef and co-owner Nathan Sasi and his team have a basement filled with valencay (a French-style goat’s cheese with ash and white mould); a sort of garrotxa (a Catalonian goat’s cheese); buffalo-milk ricotta; and an orange-wine-washed taleggio. There are also five kinds of charcuterie cuts, including a truffle mortadella and an incredibly succulent chorizo.
The cecina (a smoked cured beef) is served with wood-fired beetroot and Mercado’s garrotxa. The cured meats, and some of the cheeses, are part of a share-plate menu. Snacks include tartlets of Oritz anchovies and roasted bull-horn peppers, and plates of jamon-style cured kingfish with Sasi-made crème fraiche and horseradish. The wood-fired oven pairs up with a rotisserie to provide the restaurant’s bigger platters. These involve whole spit-roasted lambs, and an epic Wagyu blade.
The menu changes all the time – like a market in Spain or South America. In appearance, it’s far more opulent. The basement space in Angel Place is heritage listed. There’s marble flooring, brass fittings and an feature staircase.