As the name suggests, Maiz is first and foremost, about corn. Sopes, huaraches, tamales, tortillas, tostadas and totopos – if it’s corn-based, it’s likely to be on the menu. And inclusion isn’t limited to the savoury side of things – corn cake and blue corn cookies have also starred as desserts.

Highlights include the esquites – a sweet corn soup in a broth of epazote (a strong, minty herb), topped with seven-chilli mayo. Then there are triangular tetela de temporada pockets with confit fennel and braised cactus. The set menus, available for both vegetarians and omnivores, are also a good idea. So are the “machetes” – 40-centimetre-long quesadillas stuffed with the likes of grilled skirt steak done norteño (northern) style, adobo-marinated chorizo and confit garlic prawns.

There’s a big focus on drinks here, too. The in-house beer – made for Maiz by Yulli’s and starring corn as the hero ingredient, of course – is a big hit, as are the five Margaritas on the menu (which can all be made spicy on request). The considered spirits list – which includes mezcals and tequilas alongside lesser-known drinks such as sotol and raicilla – is another highlight.

Maiz has that Goldilocks size – small enough to be intimate and vibe-heavy with only a few guests, and large enough that you could get a walk-in table if you timed it right. A big part of that is thanks to the design by Guru Projects. The warmly rendered ecru walls are illuminated by sconces, which also cast the Mexican masks hanging on the walls.