When Jarrod Walsh and Dorothy “Dot” Lee called time on their Newtown diner Hartsyard, all eyes were on the hospitality duo as to what they’d do next. The answer? Longshore, a sustainable seafood diner and wine bar in the old Automata space at Chippendale’s Kensington Lane precinct.

Fermenting, curing, pickling and pressing, as well as using Asian ingredients in unexpected ways, were all part of Walsh’s Hartsyard playbook. At Longshore, he’s serving up elegant plates inspired by the Aussie coastline. He’s also having wicked good fun, too. The evidence? Abalone party pies. They’re like the hot, flaky, three-bite things straight out of your childhood – but way fancier, and served with a glop of pine mushroom ketchup.

As well as an a la carte selection, there’s a five-course tasting menu. Plus, an “experimental” snack flight spanning 10 bite-sized courses, presented in hold and cold stages.

You can also expect three fish of the day, a couple of proteins such as grilled Westholme Wagyu tri-tip with bone marrow sauce and smoked beef fat, and playful desserts featuring native ingredients and fruit. Seasonal produce from NSW underscores the offering.

On the drinks front, white wines are a natural focus given the menu’s seafood bent, and are poured by the glass (around 35 options are available) or half or whole bottle. Cocktails – such as the Strawberry Old Fashioned – utilise leftover ingredients from the kitchen.

Walsh and Lee are adamant their place isn’t just a destination restaurant. It’s also a place of casual after-work snacks, best taken in the al fresco section out front on sunny afternoons.