Mortlake is not a suburb typically known for its dining scene, let alone it’s fine-dining scene. But Japanese-fusion restaurant Katsumi has arrived and it doesn’t care.

Heading up the kitchen is former Ume sushi-chef Yang Wu, who has brought Japanese-fusion-style dishes that were once found at Ume to Mortlake.

The popular scallop carpaccio makes a return, featuring thinly sliced and lightly torched Hokkaido scallops, which are soaked in a butter-soy and lemon juice, before being strewn with ikura (salmon roe). But if scallops don’t excite you, there’s also salmon, kingfish, tuna, and scampi carpaccio, as well as beef tataki.

Beautifully crafted shoji screens give way to the private dining room, where there’s a display of sake bottles and a fish tank built into the floor.

Having Wu on board means your sushi is in good hands. Nigiri is piled with a generous serving of tuna, salmon, kingfish, scampi and, if you’re lucky, the occasional hokkigai (surf clams).

General manager Armando Favrin’s recommendation is the 16-hour sous-vide, twice-cooked Kurobuta pork with tama miso and edamame paste. He’s also excited about the baked mussels with crab meat and chopped scallops, which come in a creamy dashi sauce.

Favrin says the mussels are a tribute to Mortlake’s neighbouring suburb Breakfast Point, which is remembered by some as the place where the first friendly handshake between the Wangal people and the British took place. It’s also where the natives used to cook mussels, which they gathered from the surrounding rocks.

A chargrilled lamb rack from South Australia’s Thomas Farm is also worth your time. It’s served with honey carrots, brussel sprouts and a sweet miso-mint sauce.

The drinks list covers everything from wines and interesting sake to fun cocktails (which can be enjoyed as mocktails, too). The lychee gin and tonic (with diced kiwi fruit, soda and lychee water) is a good starting point.