Everyone’s got a story about the spinning restaurant at the top of Sydney Tower: birthday parties, graduation dinners, and school excursions. But memories from the restaurant’s Infinity era under Mark Best will be a different story entirely.

After several years working as a consultant, the respected Marque chef returned to the dining world to create the “best tourist asset” in the country with Infinity. That said, you don’t need to be a tourist to appreciate the chef’s embrace of Australia’s diverse cuisines and local produce.

The grilled sea-foam oyster – a reboot of a dish he designed at Marque – is vintage Best. Other highlights from the menu include sea urchin crumpets with clotted cream, prawn and black vinegar dumplings, and a lion’s mane dosa with a punchy vadouvan. Dishes are matched with an all-Australian drinks list.

The star of the show, as always, is the city skyline, which passes the table in a 90-minute loop and is best surveyed at golden hour.