I Maccheroni operates like a nonna’s kitchen. Bread is baked in-house, pastas are prepared daily and the menu rotates around seasonal produce. Usually these kinds of restaurants are expensive or serious. Not this one. It’s a place to drop into for a quick coffee; a plate of pasta; a leg of lamb; or stay for a few glasses of natural wine and a crumbed tiramisu.
Farioli has worked in the catering industry and at Otto Ristorante, Pendolino. At 10 William St he was the head chef. What he’s learned is on show at I Maccheroni on a short, simple, but very refined menu of traditional Italian recipes.
The house signature is the homemade maccheroni; long, chewy strands of star-shaped tubes. It has been served with brisket ragout, cavolo nero (Tuscan kale), and fontina. And garlic prawns, zucchini and cherry tomatoes. His proudest achievement, and possibly the only dish that will withstand his weekly menu tweaks, is the homemade spinach tortelli (round, flat ravioli) with burnt butter, crisp sage and Parmigiano Reggiano. The space is small, sunlit and has an open façade. There is one bare-brick wall and another covered in blackboards. A single long, communal table is the seating option.