Features

reservations recommended

Samantha Pok worked at various cafes early in her career, but it wasn’t until she travelled to Denmark that she was inspired by a restaurant that offered just one seasonal main each night.

She brought the novel concept to Sydney in 2016 via Hoost, which means “harvest” in Danish. Initially it followed the same single main approach, but the menu has since expanded.

A little. On a given night you’re choosing from about 12 share plates, including two or three desserts. One of those is likely to be the signature bone marrow – two gumball-sized lumps of marrow covered in panko crumbs and mounted on a slice of toasted Turkish bread spread with harissa.

Most dishes are a fusion of Asian spices and in-season produce. Previously, there’s been salted egg-yolk carbonara with with toasted sesame seeds and lap cheong (Chinese sausage); and tonkatsu (breaded pork fillet) with slaw.

On Sundays the restaurant opens for brunch, and Pok’s Singaporean heritage shines even more brightly than at dinner. Consider the “baoger” – bacon, eggs, cucumber, shallots, seaweed pork floss and hoisin mayo on a bao bun. The kaya (coconut jam) on toast is to Singaporeans what Vegemite toast is to Australians.

Hoost is BYO while it waits for its liquor licence, but there’s a selection of non-alcoholic drinks available.