Herring Room references an older school of thinking – when restaurant menus didn’t have a single theme, but offered popular dishes from different cultures and cuisines. It’s almost like an upmarket-hotel buffet; with baked-fish moussaka, deep-fried Thai snapper, sashimi, fish curries and pickled herring.
The uniting themes across the disparate menu are power and seafood. There are few subtle ideas here – most dishes are confident, colourful and rich.
The signature dish is a rich egg-yolk-filled squid-ink ravioli. The two dark parcels are topped with fresh crab and half submerged in a soup of beurre blanc and lemon-thyme oil. There’s a crispy-skinned, whole red snapper doused in red Thai curry that arrives standing upright like a trophy. The wildest dish is a sort-of-salad with pickled herring, tomato salsa, parmesan custard and dehydrated olive crumbs, topped with lime sorbet.
The other part of the experience is Heracleous and her floor team. They are experienced hospitality vets. Heracleous runs the floor like an MC: she knows her customers’ names and is generally a charming and rambunctious character.
It is inside a 1920s-inspired bistro, with floors covered in thick carpet and with brick-layered walls. The overall feel is nostalgic.