Appropriately, seafood is the focus at this Sydney Fish Market restaurant. And the main ingredient is charcoal – everything is cooked over coals with minimal intervention. The less-is-more principle is seen across the menu, with many dishes seasoned simply. Expect fish flavoured with charcoal, lemon, olive oil and herbs. Or flatbread that’s baked to carry proteins, not mask them.

Hamsi sits on the Blackwattle Bay side, at the western end of the whopping market. If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, just take a shortcut up the Glebe-side stairs and head for the bright yellow umbrellas. Sit inside the breezy dining room or take a couch overlooking the bay dotted with fishing boats.

On the weekends, DJs play Mediterranean music. Even better, Hamsi doesn’t close between services – you’re as welcome to dock for lunch and dinner as you are for a sundowner and a half-dozen oysters.