Good Luck Pinbone

Mike Eggert, Berri Eggert and Jemma Whiteman of Pinbone are behind this kind-of Chinese takeaway. “Kind of” because there are some traditional elements and it looks like a local takeaway joint, but this is actually fine-dining meets experimentation. Eggert and the others are approaching the venture as a chance to test their ideas, experiment and re-connect with a cooking style they’ve missed (Whiteman and Eggert previously worked at Billy Kwong).

There are some dishes that look and taste entirely Chinese, such as simple steamed wontons; the succulent Chongqing-style crispy chicken with peanuts, shallots and dried chilli; and bottle squids stir-fried with chilli, water spinach and a sauce made from squid guts.

There’s also a steak with pickled mustard greens and furikake (Japanese seasoning) butter; a fish (whatever looks good that day) with a bone-marrow, ginger and shallot sauce; and Mexican-style icy poles made from pure blended fruit. The menu changes daily, what stays consistent are the sauces and the garnishes rather than the proteins or vegetables.

The site is an old sushi restaurant, and only has a nine-month lease (which started in November 2016).

The takeaway-shop vibe is expressed with the décor. There are cheap school chairs, plastic cutlery, dark carpets and a giant, red, pagoda-like awning separating the main dining area and the bar. For drinks it’s BYO only, and Berri Eggert makes house sodas and iced teas.