Outside there’s red and white awnings, straw chairs and people sipping lattes. Inside there’s an iced fish display, a wine room, baskets of fresh baguettes and people sipping champagne. There aren't many experiences in Sydney more French than an afternoon at Felix.

Merivale has written its ode to the arrondissements around the French brasserie ideal – a relaxed venue with enough pomp, professionalism and white linen to sit just above casual bistro dining.

That’s a good brief for what to expect from the menu, which is as finessed and produce-led as you’d expect from mid-range French dining. The offering changes regularly but always expect to find chicken liver pâté, a gruyere soufflé, superb steak frites, and of course, profiteroles.

From the wine room there’s a huge selection of French bottles, with a nearly as impressive variety of Australian and New Zealand producers. The seasonal cocktail list offers an innovative suite of drinks based around French vermouth, liqueurs and aperitifs. A Martini here never goes astray.