Although it’s only about as big as a takeaway container, the aptly-named Dumpling & Noodle House in Potts Point is bursting with delights - and people enjoying them. While there’s a few (very) cosy tables inside, you’re probably better off dining under the leafy canopy of Victoria Street.

A quick glance at the tables around you will confirm the favourites: pan-fried pork and cabbage dumplings in a crispy lattice of batter; hand-folded Xiao-Long Bao filled with soupy brilliance; and hot oil and soy-sauce noodles.

While sticking to the essentials definitely plays to the restaurant’s strengths, you could lash out on Crunchy Eggplant or Hand-stretched Noodle Soup if you so pleased.

Of course it’s not licensed, nor would you want it to be when you can enjoy a crisp riesling from Camperdown Cellars, only a short stroll away. But be warned: everyone in the East knows exactly how good this joint is, so be prepared to wait for a table.