Dish: Sri Lankan Street Food

This is the inner-city sequel to a popular, now-closed Toongabbie Sri Lankan eatery. It's still all about the bain-marie and takeaway, but the Glebe venue is a little more refined and offers a la carte. As at Toongabbie, everything here is cooked fresh to order.

Tables are covered in cloths, meals are often served in an entree-main format and, thanks to some ornate Sri Lankan antiques, the dining room is far nicer than in many other restaurants at this price point.

Dishes cover Sri Lankan classics such as kottu roti (chopped-up roti teamed with egg and vegetables), dosa, biryani and hoppers: cup-shaped, wafer-thin pancakes served with curry.

The made-to-order kitchen allows the team to create some popular Sri Lankan dishes it couldn’t cook in the original restaurant, such as short-rib biryani and barramundi ambulthiyal, a dish of barramundi marinated in tamarind and curry spices grilled in a banana leaf.