At Clarence and V, effortless old-school hospitality runs deep. It’s something owner Vito Mollica, who ran ’90s Darlinghurst cafe Latteria for nearly two decades, understands more than most.

The Euro-leaning menu changes daily, starring local produce. Turn up for breakfast and you’ll be met with ham sangas loaded with cornichons, alfalfa and Dijon mustard; cold coconut porridge made with rice, quinoa, buckwheat and amaranth; egg soldiers; and snacky brekkie plates featuring toast, ham, tomatoes, pickles, cheddar and soft-boiled eggs.

Come lunch and dinner, you might mop up yellow split-pea dip with house bread before moving onto dishes like snapper with chickpea, guanciale and skordalia; and stuffed zucchini in avgolemono (Greek lemon chicken soup).

The fit-out is equally refined yet understated, featuring a green granite bar, stone table tops, leather banquettes and other vintage finds – including a rare Italian atomic coffee machine.