The space is a bright, sun-lit bistro decorated with a 1950s speedboat (Alvin) that hangs from the ceiling, and a series of timber poles like a forest of wind chimes.
While there is a $95, five-course, degustation-style menu, everything else is a la carte and designed to share.
The menu is a broad mix of different cuisines and flavours. Kingfish is served with a black-bean vinaigrette and yuzu pickled daikon; an ocean trout parfait is topped with trout consommé jelly and decorated with crispy lentils, fish roe and dill; and a Murray cod is charcoal roasted in paperbark and dressed with a curry-like mix of native spices.
Most spectacular is the seafood platter, a two-storey bazaar of oysters; fat Skull Island prawns; strawberry clams (with buttermilk and cucumber); ocean bugs; and pippies with seaweed mayo ponzu and red-wine vinaigrette for dipping.
To match, the wine list is white heavy. What reds Cirrus does serve are lighter varieties.
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