China Lane, the spin-off of Woolloomooloo’s China Doll, is a highlight in the Angel Place dining precinct. Look for the distinct birdcage installation overhead and you’ll know you’ve arrived at one of the city's favourite contemporary Asian diners; a beacon for theatregoers and powerlunchers alike.

Kristian Vale’s menu packs in a few China Doll favourites – such as the masterstock pork belly with chilli caramel with nam pla phrik – alongside house dishes. Dressed raw seafood numbers are followed by dim sum, then share plates like Wagyu Massaman curry, and crisp tofu lashed with spiced oil and Sichuan salt. Four excellent banquet options are available on top of the à la carte selection.

A 1950s vibe (think Shanghai meets Mad Men) brings old-school style to the place, which is littered with green couches, retro lamps and starburst clocks. The dining room is energetic from the moment doors open – but we really love the window seats, which let you soak up the big-city action on Ash Street.