The outside of Butter looks like any fancier-than-average sneaker store, but then there’s two bottles of Dom Pérignon in the window. After a double take you see, through the tinted glass and sneaker shelves, fried chicken, soft serve and sparkling wine. It’s not a sneaker store, a restaurant or a bar. It’s something entirely new and different.
Really, it’s a collection of things that Julian Cincotta (Rockpool Bar & Grill and Nomad), Mo Moubayed and Paul Flynn (Thievery in Glebe ) love. It treads the line of being gimmicky, but doesn’t tip over it because everything is taken so seriously.
The chicken is brined, heavily battered and, as a result, crunchy and juicy. It’s half drizzled in hot sauce, like a stylised blend of the drier American style and sticky Korean fried chicken. It comes in a sneaker-labelled shoebox, or in an unashamedly buttery, disproportionately chicken-heavy sandwich.
The menu also includes chips, corn, whole pickles, slaw, tofu nuggets and soft serve. The chips pack umami flavour from a fermented mushroom salt Cincotta created. Alongside champagne on the drinks list – mostly high-end – there is a rotation of boozy slushies and a few foreign beers, including that US hipster favourite, Pabst Blue Ribbon.