Located inside the Capella Hotel in the heritage-listed Department of Education Building on Bridge Street, Brasserie 1930 is the fifth venue by Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt, the veteran restaurateurs behind Sydney institutions Bentley and Monopole, as well as seafood restaurant Cirrus and plant-based eatery Yellow.

Here, Savage and his team cure, smoke, ferment and preserve ingredients for their modern Australian takes on classic brasserie dishes. A dramatic charcoal grill takes pride of place in the open kitchen, firing Wagyu rump cap and Blackmore rib eye steaks, and Murray cod finished with pepperberry butter and chives. For the signature dish, order the whole-roasted duck – divided into breast and a sausage made from the neck – served with roasted plum, fennel, spinach and glazed eschalot.

Hildebrandt oversees the wine list, which draws on the Bentley Group's impressive cellar and spans around 400 bottles. As ever, he's planned the offering with balance in mind: old and young vintages, iconic and natural producers, and a variety of flavours, textures and price points are all in abundance.

Like the rest of the Capella hotel, the dining space is exquisite, with cathedral ceilings, black and white marble tile floors, sleek, minimalist tables and tall windows that frame vibrant palms outside. The attention to detail is everywhere, right down to the Brasserie 1930-stamped crockery. But none of it is designed to be intimidating – this place is energetic, loud and meant to be enjoyed with gusto.