Ex-Marque head chef Joachim Borenius helms the kitchen at this semi fine diner, with a menu he envisions as “Australian produce cooked with a French accent”.

Dishes include a plate of cold smoked mussels, pickled onions, fermented and deep fried potatoes, on a bed of potato-and-mussel broth cream; and a pan-fried snapper served with sugarloaf cabbage braised in brown butter and fish sauce.

Desserts are more home-style, such as a tarte tatin with blood plums and mulled wine ice-cream. For CBD workers there’s a $45–$55 lunch special, guaranteeing at least an entrée and main within 45 minutes.

Visually, the restaurant is in fine-dining territory. Most of that is down to the site itself, a beautiful sandstone hall with high ceilings and huge windows. The basement downstairs has been converted into a bar that serves seasonal cocktails.

Updated: December 5th, 2017

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