It’s hard to pass up a front-row seat on one of the aqua, studded stools at the bar, to watch the chefs – including former Bodega pan-handler Joel Humphreys – in action. But if you’d prefer something more intimate, there’s a selection of tables and booths, too.
A tapas list spans lighter dishes such as pickled mussels with cured cabbage, celery and parsley; blood cake with yoghurt and a feisty mojo verde; and a grilled queso fresco. This last dish is squeaky, much like a grilled haloumi, with sweet leeks in salted-lime vinaigrette. Substantial plates include a brawny smoked pig’s-head sausage with potatoes and plum sauce, and wood-grilled octopus.
The wine list is almost an all-Aussie and Spanish affair. Cocktails use artisanal spirits, quality ice and a decent amount of elbow grease.
Bodega 1904 also features a climate-controlled wine store. You can even grab a bottle and order a picnic basket filled with charcuterie, salads and house-baked breads to go.
Whether you come for an aperitif and a snack, or for a whole meal, Bodega 1904 strikes that fine balance between class, community and rock‘n’roll.