Dave Whitting has some serious chops. His resume includes the relaunch of the acclaimed Subiaco Hotel restaurant and overseeing the opening and kitchen at Bistro Guillaume, both in Perth. Before that he was second in charge at Guillaume at Bennelong. Now he’s in Sydney to head the Langham Hotel’s Bistro Remy.
The venue is in a Miller’s Point four-and-a-half-star hotel, so it’s lush and fancy, although the chef hopes people will treat it like a casual neighbourhood haunt. That being said, Whitting’s food is definitely fine dining.
The house-smoked salmon, dill crème, fennel and lemon is a luscious piece of cured and cold-smoked salmon from the south of New Zealand. It comes with powdered leek ash; crème fresh whipped with dill and fennel pollen; lemon curd; and a side of seaweed-dusted brioche croutons. There’s a squid-ink-brushed kingfish with pea foam, pea mouse, mussels and caviar. And a dish of Melanda pork belly with caramel apple sauce, potato crème and pork skin that’s cooked separately for maximum crunch.
For dessert try a roasted quince, blue cheese and wine-reduction marshmallow-pavlova-like creation that gets denser the further you dig into the centre.
Cocktails share a lot of the kitchen’s ingredients. The most memorable is the Five to Seven with cognac, sweet vermouth, Gran Classico, blackberry liqueur and a honey water Casati infuses with truffle, absinthe and lemon zest.