After a string of closures and a proliferation of empty shopfronts, Surry Hills got a pulse of new blood. Chef and owner Paul Cooper (previously of Melbourne’s Botanical and O’Connell’s Hotel) made the move to Sydney, partnered up with Erez Gordon (also of Botanical and Bistro Bruno, Balmain) and revamped the local French restaurant Tabou.
The space, which seats 80 plus, took three weeks to turn around, with Deborah Grant designing the interiors. The menu, however, is where Cooper really shines with an eclectic mix of dishes that reflect his experience and skill. It’s a broad menu: from the likes of dumplings and a steamed bun with quail, hoisin sauce and ginger; to a BTS (Better Than Sex) slider, which will have Wagyu, truffle and kasundi – all the good stuff.
Another exciting concept to look out for, the intriguing and slightly wild “Beast of the Week”, where the team seek out a locally sourced beast and then break it down for a different cut each night of the week. There will also see some offal scattered throughout, so watch for pigs head or cheek and tongue dishes.
After a hold-up with the liquor license and a last-minute name change, it’s great to see an old location transform into such a promising meeting spot.