Tearing up a slice of warm, house-made focaccia – made with a beer base – signals the start of a night-time meal at Bar Bruno. It’s the new York Street all-dayer from the Odd Culture team, and it’s looking to bring the hard-to-achieve unhurried ease of a neighbourhood local into the heart of the CBD. But dining at Bruno starts earlier than that.

Operating in true Italian osteria style, Bruno eases you into the day with a morning caffeine hit and pastries, before lunch service kicks in and flows through, uninterrupted, to dinner and late-night drinks. The setting is a high-ceilinged warehouse-like space, with exposed brick walls, raw timber beams and a low amber glow.

The daily aperitivo hour is a great time to meet Bruno. Maybe over a smooth Rockmelon Negroni or a photogenic strawberry radicchio spritz, which hits with a balance of bitter, bitey and sweet. As Frank Sinatra croons, and dinner service starts, slide into a booth, pull up at the bar or claim a table.