Head upstairs from Tatler to find 169 Darlinghurst, the handsome cafe/wine bar added by owner Tim Clark at the end of 2015. You’ll be met with distinctive murals by artist George Raftopoulos; and a timber- and brass-heavy fit-out designed by Tony Assness.

The breakfast menu is simple, with a focus on customisation. Choose a pastry (perhaps a raw cacao brownie or the intriguing wild-weed pie) or go for toast with whatever add-ons take your fancy. Dinner skates across a number of cuisines, incorporating roast pork and miso alongside freekeh and almond pilaf.

The coffee bar uses beans from Pablo & Rusty, prepared in a variety of modern ways, including through a frothy, nitrogen-powered tap. ACME’s Gavin Wright helped prepare the night-time drinks list, which makes its case for progressive wines with cheeky comments such as, “If rambunctious wasn’t a wanky adjective, I’d use it.”