Owner-chef Matteo Ernandes grew up in his family’s pizzeria on the remote Sicilian island of Lampedusa. At Regina (which means “queen” in Italian), there are three styles of pizza: woodfired, padellino and pizza fritta.

Consider sitting at the counter. You’ll have front-row seats to the open pizza kitchen, where you can watch the team expertly manoeuvre their pizza peels in the woodfired oven. That oven is a Fazzone, the only one in Sydney.

Choose from classics like margheritas and diavolas, or go for one with more offbeat toppings like the Fellini: Comté, spicy honey, fior di latte and corn.

The deep-dish padellino pizzas are small, round and pan-baked, topped with white bolognaise or duck ragu.

Then there’s the fried pizzas. Don’t think of them like panzerotti or deep-fried Neapolitan pizza montanara. These don’t taste fried at all – instead, they’re somehow both criminally crisp and impossibly fluffy.