When Gunjan Aylawadi first opened Flyover Fritterie, a tiny hole-in-the-wall eatery at the end of Temperance Lane in the CBD, it quickly became known for its four-item menu – featuring three types of pakora and a chai, plus weekly specials.

The Indian street food-inspired diner has sinced moved to a bigger space in Redfern, spanning two levels with plenty of seating, table service and a mostly vegan menu that goes far beyond the original four staple menu items.

The expanded offering showcases Indian cooking in an approachable way, and is a little different to what’s found at most takeaway spots around town. As well as the eatery’s signature seasonal vegetable deep-fried fritters, there’s a colourful and texturally pleasing aloo tikki, a fritter usually served at Indian wedding. It’s a crispy hash brown-like potato fritter stuffed with spicy chana dhal and topped with sweet house-made tamarind and mint chutneys, and sprinkles of pomegranate, ginger and beetroot.

Other dishes include a snacky jaffle with rotating fillings such as potatoes and peanut chutney, as well as bowls of khichri (lentil stew) topped with sabzis (vegetables with spices), crunchy fritters and house-made chutney.

For dessert, there’s sea salt besan ladoo – hand-rolled balls of gram flour roasted in ghee, with cardamom and pepper – as well as saffron and cardamom kheer (rice pudding) topped with almonds and rose petals.

Look out for specials that will pop up to mark various Indian festivals. And, of course, there’s a constant flow of Flyover Fritterie’s specially brewed chai with chocolate or ginger and cardamom available to be enjoyed hot or cold.