Bistro St Jacques

Owner Gary Prebble and head chef Brett Jeffrey take a modern approach to classic French bistro food at their neighbourhood bistro, Bistro St Jacques. Past dishes such as the cassoulet – a traditionally heavy number from the Gallic canon – is reimagined here with confit duck leg on haricot beans, braised in stock with sausage and topped with fennel breadcrumbs. Chicken in creamy Dijon mustard sauce is brightened with roasted swede and leek puree.

If you're opting for the three-course set menu ($79), you might start with house-made charcuterie (country-style terrine, rabbit rillettes and duck liver parfait), followed by grass-fed steak frites or pan-fried coral trout with roasted artichokes, asparagus and tomato-spiked béarnaise sauce. For dessert, it might be citron tart with Cointreau & raspberry jelly, crystallised citrus peel and Chantilly cream.

The extensive wine list belies the size of this cosy neighbourhood spot, honing in on bottles from Burgundy, mainly, plus a select few from around Australia. Matched with views overlooking the tree-lined street outside, this is one nostalgic perch for a drink and a snack.