The Star is filled with smart, sophisticated restaurants, and Sokyo is one of the best. If you have an aversion to gambling, it’s possible to bypass the jingle-jangle of the casino floor entirely in order to enter. Just look for a glossy wall of black fish scales.

San Francisco-born chef Chase Kojima’s global career kicked off at the famed string of Nobu restaurants. At Sokyo he heads up a large open kitchen which stretches long down a dark, moody room lit by hanging metallic lamps.

Kojima’s sashimi menu runs the gamut of the ocean, from New Zealand scampi to Tasmanian sea urchin and salmon belly and South Australian abalone.

Pre-theatre or vegetarian menus are available, but don’t miss the nine-year aged Wagyu beef rib tataki with pickled grapes, pumpkin purée, tarragon, chilli oil and tosazu.

Then there’s a range of impeccably fresh sushi rolls and a tempura menu (try the Moreton Bay bug), plus an entire section dedicated to skewers cooked over the Robata charcoal grill.

The drinks list runs to 27 pages. It includes 10 signature cocktails, sake, umeshu and craft beers from Japan’s Baird and Hitachino breweries. Wines are mostly from France and Australia.

A Japanese-inspired breakfast and buffet is also available. Dishes such as matcha waffles sit next to fruit-packed smoothies and a steaming pot of traditional Japanese dashi-stock rice porridge, with many condiments to sprinkle on top.

Updated: March 13th, 2018

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