The Star has been a home to plenty of smart and sophisticated restaurants over the years, but Sokyo has stood the test of time. If you have an aversion to gambling, it’s possible to bypass the jingle-jangle of the casino floor entirely in order to enter. Just look for a glossy wall of black fish scales.

Sokyo’s sashimi menu runs the gamut of the ocean, from New Zealand scampi to Tasmanian sea urchin and salmon belly and South Australian abalone. Then there’s a range of impeccably fresh sushi rolls and a tempura menu (try the Moreton Bay bug), plus an entire section dedicated to skewers cooked over the Robata charcoal grill.

But perhaps the best way to experience Sokyo is to take your place at the intimate omakase counter and let the chefs guide you through 20 theatrically prepared courses. With only six seats, the omakase is coveted and reliably books out a month in advance. But guests who miss out on a reservation can enter a ballot to snap up two seats on a date selected by the restaurant.

The drinks list runs to the tune of almost 30 pages. It includes signature cocktails, sake, umeshu and craft beers from Japan’s Baird and Hitachino breweries. Wines are mostly from France and Australia.