Following a change of owner and an extensive renovation, this century-old Pyrmont pub is now all about craft beer, offering 26 beer taps dispensing ales from small Australian brewers.
Inside, the public bar has been stripped back to reveal wooden floorboards, exposed beams, original brickwork and an ornate ceiling. Out the back, the downstairs courtyard is a triangular nook illuminated by dangling light bulbs. Upstairs is the pub's restaurant, the Drunken Fish, as well as a lovely rooftop terrace.
This is not the place to ask for VB. Instead, peruse the current tap list (displayed on a repurposed bookmaker's board), and sample something new. Beers come in three different sizes or you can ask for a tasting belt if you can't settle on just one brew. The tap list changes regularly, but expect representation from brewers such as Murray's, Mountain Goat, Matilda Bay, Rocks Brewing Company, Sydney Brewery, James Squire and Ekim Brewing Company.
The bar menu includes hearty fare such as twice-cooked Berkshire pork belly, a Southern-style chicken burger and barramundi, kaffir lime and lemongrass fritters. Upstairs at the Drunken Fish you can try pan-roasted snapper with kipflers, chorizo, peas and corn in a pickled jalapeno dressing, and mussels in a coconut, kaffir lime, lemongrass and chilli broth.