When you step into the street-art surrounds of Ms.G’s, it takes a moment to adjust. The four-storey space is much bigger than you’d suspect from outside. Also, there’s a red-light-district ambiance and an intriguing ceiling of suspended jam jars containing anything from matchboxes to crushed leaves.

The mix of booths, intimate wall-mounted tables and communal dining is one part Hong Kong kitsch and one part Korean diner, complete with stainless-steel cutlery holders and bottles of sriracha chilli sauce.

But the real drawcards here are executive chef Dan Hong (who holds the same role at Mr. Wong and El Loco ) and head chef Paul Donnelly, a Scottish export. Their dishes are a skilful blend of Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean influences with a hint of Americana. Regulars can’t go past the mini bánh mì; cheeseburger spring rolls; and boneless fried chicken with spicy nahm jim sauce.

The Stoner’s Delight is a cult dessert that’s reached its third iteration – a deconstructed jam doughnut with bacon, Mars Bar brownie, potato chips and deep-fried Nutella.

If that seems a bit lowbrow, reach for the wine list where mid-range bottles are grouped under useful headings such as The Power + The Tannin and Dry, Light + Flirtatious. There’s an impressive range of signature cocktails to match. The tiny selection of big-name beers is the only real let-down.

In case you were wondering, the neon “Six Two One” sign on the wall is a cheeky reference to the additive number for MSG. Not that these chefs have any need for it, though.