Metisse is an ambitious restaurant that’s bucking the share-plate trend.
The kitchen is a very French affair, with Benoit Lollichon – a graduate of Michelin-star Parisian eatery Restaurant Guy Savoy – at the helm. Owner Opel Khan has owned and managed more than 15 restaurants in Australia, including two Surry Hills restaurants, Guru and Beluga; is the author of cookbook Sex in the Kitchen; did his apprenticeship with French-food royalty, brothers Albert and Michel Roux; and worked alongside Marco Pierre White. Khan’s daughter, 19-year-old Lucinda Khan, is sous chef. Khan says with Metisse he just wants to bring “affordable luxury” to diners.
During the week diners have a choice of a la carte, with $18 entrees and $28 mains, or the degustation. On Friday and Saturdays it’s degustation only, which is five courses with matching wine for $100 per person. Vegetarian options are also available.
On the menu, there’s duck a l’orange, which is soft and crisp confit duck layered between potato and drizzled with orange sauce and served with a gold-dusted quail egg. The foie gras comes with a chickpea sponge, green lentils, beetroot jelly and horseradish “snow”.
The signature dishes are the Black Angus beef with foie gras and truffle glaze ($58) and the lobster ravioli with lobster veloute ($45).
The restaurant’s grey and black colour scheme remains unchanged, and the curved windows still let you see the colourful Kings Cross revellers go by. The large hanging floral centrepiece has been replaced by a long group dining table with a statement glass bauble chandelier hanging overhead. It really is a beautiful room to have a meal in.