Franca’s name is derived from lingua franca, a word for a common language used by speakers of different native tongues that helps them bridge cultural divides. Executive chef Jose Saulog (ex-Glass Brasserie, Tetsuya’s) have created a menu that reflects that idea: twisting and turning its way through regional France and nearby Mediterranean coastal havens, including parts of Italy.

A prime example of that is the nicoise salad, here interpreted as yellowfin tuna sashimi dressed with a colatura (anchovy sauce) dressing, confit heirloom tomatoes and garnished with grated cured egg yolk and smoked paprika. You can also expect classics from the French-brasserie canon, including pan-fried gnocchi and duck a l'orange.

About 200 bins from Australia, New Zealand and France’s key regions populate the wine list, including some interesting options from France’s Jura region. When Broadsheet visited, we tried cocktails including the seasonal bellini with Chandon, white peach and strawberry puree; and a Martini up there with the suburb’s best.

Staff in pale linen busy themselves as sunlight filters through lightly draped bay windows. Jazz fills the air as guests enjoy meals from velvet chairs surrounded by walls of art. If you’re in the market for a tipple either side of dinner, Franca’s smaller sibling Parlar next door is well worth a visit.