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You can practically feel the love as you step inside Ezra. Maybe it’s the striking living sculpture of olive branches, sun-bleached ferns and natives installed by Tracey Deep opposite the dark-wood bar, or Whitney Houston’s How Will I Know playing in the background.

Whatever it is, Nick and Kirk Mathews Bowden have lovingly devoted their beautiful 90-seat bar and diner to the flavours and dishes of the Middle East and East Mediterranean. The couple has had a long affair with Potts Point, too. They previously co-owned French brasserie Bistro Rex around the corner, and recently opened Aussie-accented bistro Teddy’s next door.

Ezra’s menu reflects the diaspora of Ashkenazi (Eastern European) and Sephardic (Iberian, Mediterranean and Levantine) staples, from a real-deal hummus served with fried chickpeas, tomato resek and an optional soft-boiled egg, to a baklava ice-cream sandwich with burnt honey ice-cream. Versions of both have been on the menu since day one.

The al fresco courtyards (one at the front and one out back) are perfect for “natural and nostalgic wines” or considered cocktails such as the passionfruit batida with salted yoghurt and passionfruit, while the long, narrow interior is a beautiful space for communal dining year-round.

New York-based designer Rosie Rainbow commissioned the show-stopping archway, handmade by a tiler in Beirut, for the main dining room, and a pink mural out the front, and illuminated arches at the entrance and framing the bar continue the theme.