Delhi by the Way looks like a swanky Indian hotel. The tables are luxuriously spaced; the seats are enclosed in flashy animal prints; there’s a courtyard with a tree protruding through the ceiling; and a guest book at the front desk.

Atmospherically, though, it’s more like a hostel. In part, this is down to owner Susheel Kumar, a veteran of India’s hotel industry. He wanted to capture the friendly spirit of Delhi – his home town.

The food is a mixture of the his favourite Delhi specialities and international Indian dishes. The most-typically Delhi meal is dal tadka, with tandoor chicken and roti. Typically it’s served from a dhaba, a highway-side stall serving honest and easy food for truck drivers. Another typically Delhi dish is ram laddu – soft, chewy almost tofu-like chickpea dumplings served under sweet tamarind sauce, hot chutney and yoghurt.

In between rounds of soft naans and skewers of chicken tikka, Delhi by the Way’s also tandoor churns out Middle Eastern-style kebabs. One features minced, marinated chicken stuffed with salty goat’s cheese.

A handful of big-name beers, wines and spirits make up the drinks list, which is somewhat basic.

Updated: July 19th, 2018

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