Widely acclaimed fine diner Gastro Park closed in May 2017. Then its chef-owner, Grant King, opened Antipodean in its place. It’s an all-day venue serving simple, recognisable, European-led share plates. That being said, King continues to experiment; the menu is full of the same creative touches recognisable from Gastro Park.
Fresh blood pudding (spiced blood fried in an egg ring to order) is served with quandong gravy and garnished in pickled shallots; house-made sourdough comes with an addictive and rich crab gravy; and for dessert there’s marigold ice-cream with torched mandarin.
The menu relies entirely on Australian or New Zealand produce. The same goes for the drinks list. The wines are either classic or from younger winemakers doing low-intervention stuff.
For brunch the standout dish is smoked duck with fermented ginger. But you’ll still find eggs here, although you have the option of enjoying them with wok-tossed abalone, white-bait fritters or broccoli and brown butter.
Coffee is from Gabriel, but for something punchier on a weekend morning, sit at the bar for a Margarita or a Bloody Morning.
The restaurant’s fit-out has barely changed. The grey and black colour scheme remains, as does the floral centrepiece and the locally forged charcoal-coloured crockery. There’s a long-table area for big brunches.