Anastasia Drakopolous is a co-owner of Pyrmont fine-diner Lumi. In 2019, she decided to open a solo side project, Noi.

Noi is in a former framing store that’s had a substantial redesign. The space has been stripped back to show off the building’s original characteristics, such as the floorboards and a brick wall that’s beautifully highlighted by clever lighting. A hint of urban luxe shines through the dark navy upholstery, gold trimmings and polished concrete bar.

Alessandro Intini (ex-Aqua Dining) and his partner Frederica Costa run the kitchen. Intini trained as a butcher and draws on those skills to make pig-head terrine and oxtail consommé, as well as his Veneto heritage (in Italy’s north-east) to create attractively plated dishes, such as a take on a risi e bisi (rice and peas) with cured salmon. A pansotti (Ligurian ravioli) filled with ricotta and borage (a blue-flower plant) and dressed with walnut sauce, is another highlight.

For dessert, there’s a playful miso-soil tiramisu (not dissimilar to the Italian-Japanese hybrid dishes you get at Lumi) and a cream sponge cake with goat-milk custard and almond-milk granita.

The wine list is comprehensive and Italian-leaning, with a few Australian and French options.