Usually when you ask a gelato maker which flavour they’re most proud of, you’ll hear something classic – pistachio, panna cotta, coffee or maybe a fruit sorbet. Michael Papaianni, the owner of Petersham’s Gelato Republic, has a very different answer –avocado and balsamic vinegar.

The fridges at Gelato Republic have as many unexpected options as they do regular flavours. There’s a semi-savoury black olive and basil; a lime-coloured wasabi that’s subtle but stinging, and a turmeric, ginger and lemon that tastes like powerful health tonic.

The other oddity here is that half the flavours are labelled non-dairy. None of them are sorbets, though – they’re creamy, nutty and chocolatey, just made with soy and nut milks. There’s vegan black sesame, peanut butter and classics like fig and walnut. Sometimes he’ll make a dairy-based batch and the next week the same flavour might be vegan.

The focus is just on the art of gelato, something Papaianni learnt from John Nocita (a well-known Calabrian chef). Compared to other gelato vendors in Sydney, it’s less gummy and softer, closer to soft serve without being completely devoid of bite.

Aside from some typically dark Italian coffee, that’s it. It’s a plain, undecorated space with a little more room to sit down than the usual ice-cream shop.

Gelato Republic 61-63 New Canterbury Road, Petersham

(02) 9568 1797

Hours Wed to Thu 10am–10pm Fri to Sat 10am–11pm

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