Amma’s Modern Kitchen is owned by siblings Amy Ramachandren and chef Devan Vallipuram. It’s famous among local Malaysians for doing some of the best Malaysian-Indian food in town. The most popular dish – despite only being available on the weekend, or by ordering ahead – is a tangy and pungent salmon-head curry with okra and tomatoes.

The best-known of all Mamak (Malaysians of Muslim-Tamil descent) dishes is roti canai, a buttery flatbread usually served with dal and sambal. Amma’s Kitchen makes its own.

For a more distinct Malaysian-Indian experience try the murtabak. It’s like a gozleme made with roti and filled with spiced meat. Or the rojak, which is a salad of yam beans, cucumber and boiled egg dressed in a rich sauce made by slow cooking sweet potatoes and dried prawns. The sup kambing is worth trying, it’s a rich and peppery goat soup.

Amma’s Kitchen also has an extensive range of South Indian and Sri Lankan street foods, and many Chinese-Malaysian staples. The front of the restaurant has a well-stocked takeaway counter with various curries, deep-fried snacks and Indian sweets.