Within the $3.2 billion Parramatta Square dining precinct lies Cicciabella’s second venue. Similar to the Bondi original, the woodfire oven is the centrepiece. Ocean trout is baked cartoccio (in parchment paper); king prawns in caper butter are beautifully caramelised; and pork cutlets, lamb chops and bistecca Fiorentina round out the woodfired meat and seafood selection.

Pizzas with classic toppings (such as anchovy and capers; pepperoni; and tomato and oregano) are available by the slice or the slab, and the crudo (raw) selection includes kingfish, tuna, beef tartare and scallops. The menu pays homage to Italy’s cucina povera (peasant) style of cooking – an approach that involves simple dishes where each ingredient is carefully and thoughtfully chosen.

Scout ’s Matt Whiley has contributed to the cocktail list – expect creations such as the Cicciabellini (peach, Contratto, prosecco and Earl Grey) and a bergamot Negroni. And sommelier James Hird’s wine list is stacked with mainly Italian varietals that have been grown and produced organically in Italy and Australia.

If the Bondi location is pared-back and minimal, Parramatta is more so, dominated by concrete, cinder block and steel design elements. The space is full of hard angles and cool tones, softened by artwork by Benzo, including painted silk hangings over the dining area and hand-carved etchings in cement surfaces.