Chef Armando Percuoco founded this Italian stalwart in 1987 and ran it all the way up until mid-2018, when long-time head chef David Wright and his wife Rosalba Bertocci took over.
The menu follows a fairly traditional structure and reflects what you might find in Naples. Small starters of raw or lightly cured seafood are followed by hand-made pastas, then perhaps whole fish, and rich, meaty mains (maybe slow-cooked lamb shoulder with ricotta, mint and lemon). Sourcing of ingredients is a serious business here, so you’ll find most dishes treated with a light touch. Lemon, olive oil, capers and parmesan make repeat appearances.
Then there is the famed truffle-egg pasta. It was created by Percuoco in the early days and hasn’t left the menu since, with only a handful of kitchen staff trained to prepare it. Fresh fettuccine is coated in a silky mess of butter, cream, parmesan and pepper, then topped with a truffle-infused egg.
The wine list is more than 200-strong and leans heavily in an Italian direction - no surprises there - though a smattering of locals do get a look in.
Beyond the iconic green door at the entrance, the interior setup is fairly old-school, with white linen tablecloths, floral upholstery, and - depending on where you're sitting - the occasional mirrored ceiling. There’s old-fashioned service from white-jacketed waiters to match, too.