Ben Greeno, a chef with a resume like a blogger’s bucket list, is behind the reinvigorated, Merivale led, The Paddington. Once the Paddington Arms.

The ex-Momofuku Seiobo and Noma man has created a menu that focuses on traditional French rotisserie. There’s a half or a whole chicken, brined, juicy and supported by fries; a lamb or beef rump; and a whole fish stuffed with olives, lemon, thyme and celeriac.

The rest of the menu is filled with share-plate dishes. Greeno’s most happy with a dish of parmesan custard, sprouted pulses, peas and spelt salad. He’s also serving a chicken offal dish.

Just like the menu, the venue’s fit-out isn’t exactly faithful to its pub heritage. Like the Coogee Pavilion and other Merivale ventures, it’s not just a single idea or feel, but different designs. Downstairs is dominated by white tiles, paint-stripped walls and hung garlic heads reminiscent of rural France. Upstairs there is a balcony and a bar with stools overlooking the kitchen, a lounge-like area and an incredible sun-lit private room, which feels like stumbling into the hall of a charmingly ruined, provincial church.