L’Avant Cave is the front cellar for the exceptional French bistro Porcine upstairs, and here the menu changes daily. Expect snacks in the realm of gold, sharp-cornered rectangles of fried panisse. Or oeufs Caesar (a funky egg-and-anchovy two-biter), parfait toast, fresh and baked oysters, and an ever-changing mix of fruits de mer. But not knowing is part of the fun.

The cellar is stocked with local, French and Jura drops best enjoyed in the window bar seats at sunset, or in the cosy courtyard out back. And you can take bottles to go. The two lists, Porcine’s 100 bottles and the Cave’s 50, are available at a reduced takeaway price – just ask. L’Avant Cave is your final destination, or it’s a pit stop before or after you take the stairs.